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-ITALY TODAY
-WINE
REGIONS OF ITALY
-WINE
HISTORY OF ITALY
-QUALITY GUARANTEE
-WINES
OF ITALY
-THE WINES
-THE WINERIES
-WINE
MAP OF ITALY (PDF)
-SATELLITE
IMAGE ITALY
Bacchus - god of wine
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Italy is famous for many things
such as fashion, architecture and food, but there is one thing in
particular that Italy is famous for - wine. Much of Italian life
is devoted to wine, whether Italians are growing it, distributing
it, buying it or just drinking it, everyone in Italy is connected
to wine. Wine is a sense of great pride and nationalism to the
Italians and is equally as important as the cuisine itself -
generally served at almost every meal.
With a 3,000-year viticultural history, Italy remains firmly at
the forefront of world wine production; producing and consuming
more wine than any other nation, with the exception of France.
Italy's growth success can be attributed to a number
of factors:
- grape diversity - a very high
number of unexploited indigenous varieties
- Italian restaurants spread
around the world acting as fine wine distributors
- Italian heritage offering a rich
source of tradition in ultra-premium markets
- strong industry focus on
continually improving the quality of wines
- Italian lifestyle and fashion -
way of living
- promoting Italy as a tourist
destination based on its wine culture and wine producing regions
- centuries-long established tradition of wine
production and export since the Roman Times
Italy is blessed with an almost
perfect climate which encourages generous yields and abundant
grape production, often processed in antiquated facilities of
co-operatives and modern privately-owned estates filled with
armies of agronomists and oenologists. Unlike many parts of France
that are climatically unsuited to wine production, there is no
part of Italy that is a no-go area for the vine.
With more than one million grape growers, the Italian wine
industry is highly fragmented with 2/3 of winegrowers owning less
than 2 acres. As a result of these numerous growers, 60% of
Italy's wine production is represented by co-operatives.
Italian wine continues to be among the most popular wine consumed
in the whole world. Virtually every country in the world imports
Italian wine, with the principal importers of Italian wine being the U.S., France,
Germany and the United Kingdom
On a global comparison, Italy is the world's 2nd largest producer
of wine in the world contributing 19% of world production. Italy
however ranks 1st out of the top 10 exporters of wine in the world
with 26% of
world exports. In the U.S. market, 2005 and 2006 saw Italy ranked
number one as the largest import category of wines with
a +9% growth rate in the last year alone.
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WINE
GROWING REGIONS
The country of Italy divides into four key winegrowing zones: the
South & Islands, Central Italy, Northwest, and Northeast. These
zones are further broken down into 20 winegrowing regions
classified and governed by the quality-control system of DOCs
(denominazione de origine controllata).
SOUTH & ISLANDS
The Apennine mountain range dominates the mainland, with the best
vineyards situated on north-facing foothills. Soils are
predominantly volcanic and granite, with some clay and chalk.
Close proximity to the Saharan climate of Africa ensures high
ripening temperatures, while the cooler Mediterranean reduces
nocturnal (night time) temperatures along the coastal areas. Average
summer temperatures range around 75 degrees Fahrenheit with
average rainfall at 23 inches.
South Italy has 4 main winegrowing regions, they are
Puglia,
Campania,
Basilicata and
Calabria.
Puglia - this is Italy's answer to California's Central Valley
or Australia's Riverina. Puglia is the heel of Italy, the
typography is flat and sun-scorched with rainfall occurring during
the winter months. There is an abundance of ancient, non-irrigated
vineyards planted with local varieties that ripen beautifully with
little annual variation. Puglia produces more wine than any other
region in Italy - 14% of the nation's total - yet the average
quality is low due to high yields and poor vinification standards. However the last 10 years
have seen a major change and regeneration as investment capital
and modernization towards New World styles redesign the system.
Campania - has the most revered winemaking tradition of
any part of Italy. Based around the regional capital, Naples, this
area has been producing some of Italy's finest wines since the
Roman times, credited to its volcanic soils rich in trace elements
and minerals ideally suited to viticulture. Taurasi, made from the
local variety Aglianico, is this regions most exciting red wine
produced.
Basilicata - located in the instep of Italy's boot shape,
the vineyards are located at around 1,900 feet above sea level and
known for producing fresh, structured red wines, however
production quantities are very small.
Calabria - the region that forms the toe of Italy's boot, produces
mostly small quantities of rustic wines for the local market.
Calabria however is known best for producing Cirò, the only DOC
wine from this region and a rather sophisticated DOC dessert wine
produced from Greco grapes.
The wine growing regions of the Islands can be found on
Sicily and
Sardinia. Sicily's grape growing region is known as Sicilia
and Sardinia's region is known as Sardegna.
Sicilia - the most productive region of Italy, has abundant native grape varieties suited
towards enormous climatic variations, giving rise to a virtually
unlimited style of wines. Sicilia boasts a greater vineyard area
than any other region in Italy with one IGT (IGT Sicilia) for the
entire island. This grants the freedom to blend grapes from
anywhere on the island and label products varietally. The wines
produced from this region are mostly table wine standard, but
isolated pockets of improving quality suggests that Sicilian wines
could be among Italy's finest some time in the future. Marsala is
the most celebrated fortified wine produced from here as well as
Corvo Rosso, a long lived spicy red.
Sardegna - over production and high yields have resulted in three quarters of Sardinia's (Sardegna's) vines
being uprooted in the last 15 years, however decent quantities of wines
are still produced from here. Cannonau, claimed to be related to
Grenache, is this islands most important red variety.
TUSCANY & CENTRAL ITALY
Central Italy extends from Tuscany's northwestern border south to
Molise. The dorsal chain of the Apennines, running the length of
the central regions, divides the Adriatic flank and its
uninterrupted winegrowing belt, with the hilly inland wine growing
regions of Tuscany known as Toscana. The terrain and altitude vary greatly but
vineyards tend to be found on the flat plains and surrounding
foothills. The soils vary from calcareous clay in the Adriatic
hill zones to volcanic, stony marls and sandy clays of Tuscany.
Summers tend to be generally hot and dry with average temperature
around 74 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by cool wet winters which
averages between 23 - 30 inches in rainfall.
On the Adriatic flank, the major winegrowing regions are
Romagna,
Le Marche,
Umbria,
Lazio,
Abruzzo and
Molise.
Romagna - the best wines in this region, both red and
white, come from the inland hills. The best red wine from this
area is mostly the Sangiovese di Romagna, the great red grape of
Tuscany, however both the Adriatic and neighboring Tuscany claim
paternity of this all important grape, with each region developing
its own clones. The sprawling region of Romagna is also known as a
bulk-producing wine region and is renown for producing Lambrusco,
a slightly sparkling red wine.
Le Marche - the best red wines that come from this region
is its Rosso Conero, made from indigenous Montepulciano, and Rosso
Piceno which is a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. However
grape growers have been recently flirting with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Syrah, which might seriously test the regions loyalty
to its own varieties in the future. The best known white is the
Verdicchio which dominates in this region.
Umbria - wedged between Tuscany and Le Marche, this land
locked region used to be known for its distinctive local white
variety, Orvieto, however this has been recently overshadowed by a
new generation of premium red wines, most notably Torgiano made
from Sangiovese.
Lazio - almost half of this regions wine is made in the
country district of
Castelli Romani, south of
Rome. The idyllic
climate of the hills here has, for centuries, made them home to
the summer residences of the Roman aristocracy and the Pope.
Although the latitude ought to favor reds, Lazio is white wine
country. The mix of fine-grained volcanic soils and 1,300 foot
elevations provide ideal conditions which favors white varieties.
Chief among these are the traditional favorites of Trabbiano and
Malvasia grapes, key components in its most famous white wine: Frascati. Beyond the local grapes, boutique wineries are also
starting to grow Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Syrah, and Petit Verdot.
Abruzzo - the whole production of this mountainous region
revolves around just two varieties, the native red Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo and the white Trebbiano d'Abbruzzo. Producers are also
starting to grow Chardonnay grapes, which seem to be doing
extremely well in this region.
Molise - Italy's smallest region, has vineyards mostly
concentrated on the coastal plain, where hot dry summers make
irrigation essential. Their reds are based primarily on the
Montepulciano grape with their whites based on Trebbiano, Bombino
and Malvasia grapes. Chardonnay and Riesling are recent
introductions to this region.
Tuscany (Toscana) - along with Piemont, this is
Italy's most significant region in producing high quality wines,
and the fastest-growing wine area in Italy. Located in the
cultural heart of the country, in addition to beautiful old cities
of
Florence and
Siena, the rolling landscape of olive trees and
vines is the best-loved on the European tourist circuit.
Tuscany (Toscana) splits fairly neatly into two broad geographical areas:
the Coast Area and the Central Hills - located in the provinces
of Florence and Siena.
The Coast Area - this is red wine country dominated by
elite aristocratic estates and boutique wineries. This area includes
the four wine growing
regions of Lucca, Pisa, Bolgheri, and Maremma,
Lucca - located to the north and northeast of the tiny
Tuscan town of Lucca, small quantities of red wines are produced
here based on Sangiovese, while their most exciting wine produced
from here is a DOC white wine called Montecarlo, a blend of
Trebbiano with trans-Alpine varieties.
Pisa - this area extends southeast of the town
Pisa, famous for
its leaning tower. Most of the red wines from this area are based
on Sangiovese grapes, however Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have
also adapted well to the clay soils of the area.
Bolgheri - this coastal area is known for its estate
produced wines. Conditions here are not ideal for Sangiovese, but
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah make wines with huge class
and balance.
Maremma - with its coast and rolling hills, this
winegrowing district has been dubbed Italy's California, where
conditions are ideal for making premium wines in commercially
viable quantities. Many of Tuscany's big names have bought a stake
in this area in the last five years, with an emphasis on producing
big reds based on Sangiovese. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
however dominates this area.
The Central Hills - the prestige growing district of
Tuscany renown for its Super-Tuscan estate wines. The Central
Hills area includes the six regions of Carmignano, Chianti, Chianti Classico,
Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano.
Carmignano - northwest of Florence, this tiny hilly
district marked out Europe's first quality winegrowing zone in
1716 by Grand Duke Cosimo III. The wines are made from Sangiovese
and Cabernet Sauvignon: a blend traditional to the area long
before it became the mark of the Super-Tuscans.
Chianti Classico - Chianti is the name of the hills that
stretch south from Florence to Siena. Chianti Classico DOCG is the
traditional heart of this area's wine production with soils and
microclimates that vary considerably here. The best wines come
from stony-calcareous terrain at an elevation of 1,150 feet to
1,470 feet. Producers make Chianti from 100% Sangiovese but have
started the trend to innovative blending of Sangiovese with
varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, elevating the
quality to higher levels.
Chianti - the most famous region in Tuscany, producing
around two thirds of the annual production of Chianti DOCG. Made
from the same grape mix as Chianti Classico, standard label
Chianti has a reputation for being a lighter style wine made to
drink young.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano - first cited in 1276, this area
has the longest pedigree of any white varietal in Italy: Vernaccia,
one of the few white Italian DOCGs with a riserva category.
The grapes are grown on the slopes around this medieval hill town,
producing a number of wines from light, dry table wines to high
end reserves.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - southeast of Siena, this
area is well known for producing a local favorite: Prugnolo DOCG,
a grape mix based on Sangiovese. This area has a more traditional
image than Chianti and a good source for hearty, value-for-money
reds with real Tuscan character.
Brunello di Montalcino - famous for Tuscany's most
expensive red wine: Brunello DOCG, a clone propagated in 1888 from
the very best of Italian Sangiovese vine cuttings. This full
bodied red benefits from at least two years aging in oak barrels
followed by a further two years in the cellar prior to release.
PIEMONT & NORTHWEST
Flanked by mountains on three sides, Northwest Italy is world
famous for producing Italy's most prestigious wines including the
powerhouses of Barolo and Barbaresco. Vineyards in this zone use
the hills and mountains to best effect as they utilize the variety
of climate ranges and altitudes. Average summer
temperatures range between 65 - 70 degrees Fahrenheit with annual
rainfall at around 33 inches.
The wine growing regions of the Northwest include
Valle d'Aosta,
Piemonte,
Liguria,
Lombardia and
Emilia.
Valle d'Aosta - this tiny area is is rich in history and
tradition, with steeply terraced vineyards clinging to perilous
mountain passes. Agriculture is backbreaking work as flat land is
in short supply with little available topsoil. The vine however is
triumphant here, boldly growing where other crops fear to tread.
The wines of Valle d'Aosta remain largely undiscovered and
undervalued. Common grapes grown here, Nebbiolo, Muscat,
Petit Rouge, Beaujolais, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay.
Piemont - home to Italy's - and the world's - finest wines,
Barolo and Barbaresco. The combination of climate, grape and soil
makes this region as potent as in Bordeaux or Burgundy. Boasting a
mix of soils not found elsewhere, the summits, slopes and valleys
consist of limestone, sandstone and clay.
Liguria - stretching from the French Riveria to northern
Tuscany, this area includes some of Europe's most valuable land.
This region has enormous potential. A rare combination of altitude
and maritime influences create microclimates mostly suited to the
production of white wines - 80%, and the much prized red wine, Rossese, Liguria's only red DOC.
Lombardia - comprising a sizeable chunk of Northwest Italy,
this is the nations industrial heartland and home to Italy's
fashion and financial capital, Milano. Overshadowed by Piemont and
Emilia, Lombardia's fledgling wine industry has never quite
developed a reputation to rival its illustrious neighbors. However
it remains the country's only denomination dedicated to sparkling
wine production, set to rival the best from Champagne. The
combination of considerable investment, low yields, the latest
technology, and the no-expense-spared dedication to quality has
made considerable impact. The infertile stony soils of these
Alpine foothills combined with continental climate and frequent
fog, makes this ideal territory well suited to the production of
sparkling wine.
Emilia-Romagna - a sprawling region comprising Emilia to
the west and Romagna on the Adriatic coast. This is one of Italy's
bulk-producing wine regions, renown for producing a red, slightly
sparkling Lambrusco as well as Sagiovese di Romagna.
VENETO & NORTHEAST
Stretching from the Alps to the Adriatic, with Venice at its
heart, Northeast Italy is an area of enormous scenic and cultural
diversity. With the most varied soils and climates in the country,
these typographical extremes mean that there are growing
conditions here for every range of vine; from sun-loving red
grapes to cool-climate, aromatic white grapes. Frost is rare and
winters are mild in this region as vineyards benefit from the
shelter of the high mountains of the Alps, and moderating influence
of the Adriatic. The best sites are found on south-facing slopes,
mid-altitude hills, and valley sides. Average summer temperature
ranges around 72 degrees Fahrenheit, with average annual rainfall
ranging between 20 - 60 inches.
Northeast Italy is broken down into three key winegrowing regions,
they are
Trentino-Alto Adige,
Veneto and
Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Trentino-Alto Adige - these two districts are joined
together under one banner mainly for administrative purposes. They
are, however, two very distinct wine regions, with separate
histories, characters, soil and climatic differences. Trentino is
more traditionally Italian, while Germanic influences are strong in
Alto Adige. This region has one of Italy's younger wine-making
industries and much smaller production quantities, but their top
estate wines rank among the national elite. Local demand for these
wines are huge, leaving only tiny quantities for export.
Trentino - home to Italy's top school of oenology, occupies
the lower part of Adige. This region brings together 19 varietals
and a couple blends under its Trentino DOC name. 80% of production
is handled by co-operatives, with Chardonnay being the most widely
planted white grape in this region. Other white grapes suited to
its high altitude vineyards are the Müller-Thurgau and Nosiola. On
the reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet
Franc top the production list as well as local varieties -
Teroldego and Marzemino. Interestingly Trentino was the first
region in Italy to make Bordeaux-style Cabernet-Merlot blends.
Alto Adige - close to the Austrian border, this is Italy's
northernmost wine region. Part of the Austro-Hungarian empire
until 1919, this region has a very small and dynamic winemaking
district with a cult following for its range of exclusive, limited
production wines. White grapes grown here - Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Silvaner. Red
wines grown here include the local grape Schiava, which covers
about half the region's total vineyard area, Lagrein and Pinot
Noir.
Veneto - the major wine-producing region of Northeast
Italy. Of the three geographical regions that make up the
Northeast, Veneto boasts the oldest winemaking tradition, with
vines flourishing under the Romans since the 2nd century BC. This
region is famous for producing Amarone, one of Italy's richest and
most successful reds, as well as the classic, easy-drinking
Prosecco, Soave and Valpolicella wines.
Fruili-Venezia Giulia - the easternmost wine region of
Italy borders Austria to its north and Slovenia to the east. Tiny
production, countless grape varieties, multiple DOC zones and many
small producers make this the most complex district of Northeast
Italy. The quality of wine produced in this area is considered
exceptional, only Tuscany and Piemont, which make three times more
wine, pick up more awards. Pinot Grigio is considered the flagship
white wine from here, with Sauvignon Blanc as the most successful
grape in this region. Other notable whites from here are Pinot
Bianco, Malvasia, Picolit and Chardonnay. The Best reds from here
include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Refosco and
Schiopettino.
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THE HISTORY OF
ITALY'S WINE
INDUSTRY
Drink as the Romans Do
The wine-grape species, Vitis Vinifera, has been growing on
the Italian mainland centuries before the birth of Christ. It is
believed that the indigenous vines were first cultivated by the
Etruscans, a tribal society which originated from around the
eastern Mediterranean as far back as 900 BC.
The Etruscans were a
sophisticated society which went on to settle most of modern-day
Tuscany, bringing with them civilization and urbanization. Like
the surrounding tribes, mostly of Latin origin, the Etruscans were
largely an agrarian (agricultural) society, but they also had a
strong military, and used that military to dominate the
surrounding tribes. These dominated populations were forced to do
the agricultural labor on the Etruscan farms, which in turn
allowed the Etruscans time to devote to commerce, industry and
religion. The city of Rome, and eventually the Roman empire, later emerged around 753 BC, founded
by neighboring Latin-Italic tribes, which imitated the lifestyle
and values of their Etruscan neighbors.
It was the Greeks, who settled in southern Italy and Sicily around
780 BC, that brought with them philosophy, science and the art of
wine-growing, as they introduced new vine varieties to Italy. So impressed
were the Greeks with how the vines they established took to their
new home, they christened Italy - Enotria "Land of the
Vine". The Greeks' contributed in refining the art of wine-growing
by training the vines close to the ground to retain moisture, a
practice still in operation to this day in southern Italy, and
adding seawater to wine as a preservative.
It was however the Romans, by the time the Roman empire was at its
height, who were responsible for its dissemination throughout
Europe. Opening up busy trade routes, to keep the occupying armies
supplied, the Romans greatly expanded the practice of viticulture
to such outposts as Gaul (France), Spain and Britain. Not only did
the Romans export wine in bulk, but they also consumed vast
amounts which led to the development of key concepts in the
production of quality grapes; including site selection, training,
pruning, yields and aging; raising both grape growing and
winemaking to new levels which remained unchallenged till the 20th century.
The Romans contributed considerably to the art of wine-making
by including the use of props and trellises, improving the Greek presses
used for extracting juice, classifying wine growing climates and
increasing yields.
The Romans also discovered that tightly closed
containers improved the preservation and aging of wine, and were the first to store
wine in wooden barrels. The Romans, later on, were also to be the first
to use glass jars to contain wine, which they sealed with corks.
Some Roman wines were apparently still drinkable after being
stored for 200 years.
The Romans made more than 80 styles of wine, enhancing these styles by
diluting the strong alcohol content with water, mixing in honey,
adding herbs and spices and even chalk to reduce the acidity of
wine.
It was the eventual fall and collapse of Rome that spelled the end
to the golden age of wine, as demand for wine decreased in Europe
during the dark ages. During this period which lasted 500 years,
it was the Roman Catholic monks that continued to produce wine,
eventually to increase back in popularity during the
renaissance.
Bitter rivalry between city states throughout Italy during the
dark ages until its unification in 1861, led to extraordinary
diversity in the vineyard as each federation fiercely protected
local varieties and traditions. During this time viticulture in
Italy gradually assumed the complex shape we know today, with a
profusion of regional grape varieties, wine styles, and local
winemaking techniques and standards.
Despite Italy's formidable potential, the 19th and 20th centuries
saw Italian wines often criticized for poor quality. With the
emergence of a true middle class after World War II, Italians
became more interested in quality rather than quantity. By the
1950's, the industry started to drastically change, reliance on
co-operatives declined, yields reduced, and new technology
embraced.
ITALY'S QUALITY CONTROL - DOC(G)
In the 1960's the government decided to take steps to introduce a
quality-control system known as denominazione de origine
controllata (DOC), a regulation designed to improve the
quality of wine. Unfortunately, this was randomly applied to
whichever wines were of particular commercial value at the time.
Since 1992, there has been an intense campaign to redesign the
system, known as the Goria law, after the former Agriculture
Minister who instigated it. This tightened up on quality within
the DOC regions making wines subject to approval by a professional
tasting panel for the first time, with a DOCG designation. The Goria Law also made
provision for classifying the best regional wines with a broader
designation IGT, indicazione geographica tipica, and VdT,
vino da tavola (table wine).
However, some of Italy's very finest wines, such as the Super
Tuscans (made with non indigenous grapes and new oak barrels),
have been produced with flagrant disregard to the regulations of
their area, which are defiantly labeled with a VdT designation.
Since this rebellious trend emerged from producers frustrated by the
strict and limiting DOC(G), this system has recently been modified
enabling producers more freedom in their choice of grape varieties
which in turn means that many of the Super Tuscan wines, as an
example, may now be eligible for DOC(G) status.
Italian Wine Classification
All Italian wines can be classified under four designations,
according to wines produced from specified regions based on local
regulations, listed in the following order of priority:
DOCG - denominazione di origine controllata e garantita,
(controlled wines with an additional guarantee) this is the
highest quality classification which guarantees the quality status
of a wine produced from a specified region or area according to
very strict local standards. This guarantee is based on four key
components - origin, grapes, production methods and overall
quality of wine, approved by a professional tasting panel. In order to attain a DOCG status a wine must be
produced using traditional Italian grape varieties, though this
system has recently been modified to now include non traditional
grape varieties.
Since a great
many Italian wine labels have no mention of the grape or grapes, the name
of the region or district can generally provide a good indication
of the style of wine.
DOC - denominazione di origine controllata,
(controlled wines) this is a quality classification which
guarantees origin, grapes and production methods based according
to a regions local regulations.
IGT - indicazione geografica tipica, this is a
regional quality guarantee that the wine meets local regulation
standards, usually reserved for a category of wines that use
non-traditional Italian grape varieties such as Chardonnay,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
VdT - vino da tavola (table wine) not necessarily a quality
guarantee, however the best indication of a quality guarantee
under this classification is the name of the grower. This
classification has virtually no limitations or standards
associated with it, allowing winemakers more freedom in their
choice of grape varieties and wine making techniques.
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THE WINES OF ITALY
At a time when the world of wine is increasingly identified by international grapes,
Italian viticulture as a whole remains firmly committed to
traditional, indigenous varieties. Its rich heritage of over 2,000
native grapes is the result of centuries of viticultural history,
however there is a growing trend across the country to start
incorporating international favorites such as Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to name just a few.
Whites
Twenty white grape varieties compose Italy's major varieties for
white or sparkling wine production. The following is a list of
five key white varieties in order of importance.
Trebbiano - the most common white variety in Italy, grown
almost everywhere but particularly prevalent in the central
regions. It has several sub-varieties, or clones, of which
Trebbiano Toscano is probably the most planted; other clones
include Trebbiano di Romagna, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano
Giallo, Trebbiano di Soave, and the relatively fine Procanico. In
one manifestation or another, it's the backbone of numerous
classic Italian white wines, such as Frascati. Usually a dry,
crisp, refreshing, food-friendly style wine, it is produced in
large volumes mainly used for blending.
Pinot Grigio - the Italian name for the French variety -
Pinot Gris. Like other varieties of French origin, Pinot Gris
immigrated to Northeastern Italy more than a century ago; its
production has increased since the late 1970's, due to its
tremendous commercial success. Because of high crop levels and
popular taste in Italy, Pinot Grigio most often makes
light-bodied, pale, high-acid wines; some producers make more
characterful styles, with concentrated flavors of peach or
mineral, but none as rich as the Alsace Pinot Gris wines. The best
Pinot Grigios come from Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Verdicchio - excels in the Marche region, on the Adriatic
coast. It has far more potential for flavor and character than
Trebbiano does, making wines with medium body, crisp acidity and
flavors of lemon, grass and almonds. Labeled as a straight
varietal, this wine is usually aged in stainless steel.
Vernaccia - Two distinct white Italian varieties go by the
name Vernaccia, one in Tuscany and the other in Sardinia. (There's
also a red Vernaccia from Marche!) The Tuscan Vernaccia is the
finer of the two whites. Although its wines have the trademark
Italian high acidity and light to medium body, the best examples
show depth and character, with spice and mineral nuances.
Vernaccia usually makes un-oaked wines, but can sometimes age
quite nicely in oak barrels.
Tocai Friulano - While Pinot Grigio gets the lion's share
of attention, many fans of Friulian wines favor the Tocai Friulano
grape - the most widely planted white variety in Friuli. Tocai
makes light- to medium-bodied wines with crisp acidity; the best
of them have a rich texture and are more flavorful than the
Italian norm. Some experts believe Tocai to be Sauvignon Vert, a
variety that often passes for Sauvignon Blanc in Chile, although
Italy's Tocais are quite different from Chile's Sauvignons.
Whatever the variety actually is, it will soon go under a
different name, yet to be determined: The European Union has
required producers to desist from using the name Tocai by 2007, to
avoid confusion with Hungary's classic wine zone, Tokaji.
Other white grapes grown - Chardonnay,
Arneis, Cortese, Fiano, Garganega, Greco, Malvasia, Moscato, Pinot
Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling Renano, Viognier,
Petit Verdot and Vermentino.
Reds
Twenty-three red grape varieties compose Italy's major varieties
for red wine. Four of these are especially important, either for
the quality of wine they produce or for their dissemination
throughout the country.
Sangiovese - indigenous to Tuscany, Sangiovese is the most
planted red variety in Italy's vineyards. It's the lifeblood of
red wine production in the central Italian regions of Tuscany and
Umbria; it also grows in several other regions. It is the major
grape of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and the only
variety in Brunello di Montalcino; many critically acclaimed
Super-Tuscan wines also derive largely from Sangiovese. Common
blending partners for Sangiovese include the native Canaiolo
grape, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.
Dozens of clones, or sub-varieties, of Sangiovese exist,
some finer than others. (This variety changes in response to its
grape growing environment, which accounts for its diversity.) One
family, of clones responsible for many of the best Sangiovese
wines is called Sangiovese Grosso ("large Sangiovese"). The
characteristics of Sangiovese include only a medium intensity of
color, high acidity, firm tannin, with aromas and flavors of
cherries and herbs. Most wines made from Sangiovese are lean in
structure; they're generally medium-bodied, but some are
light-bodied or full-bodied, depending on where the grapes grow.
Nebbiol - a specialty grape of the Piedmont region. This
native Italian grape makes two of Italy's very greatest red wines,
Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as several less exalted wines.
Nebbiolo produces full-bodied, characterful wines that are high in
acid and tannin, but generally have only medium color intensity.
Nebbiolo's aromas and flavors vary according to the vineyard site,
but cover a wide spectrum, from fruity (strawberry) to herbal
(mint, camphor, and anise) to earthy (mushrooms, white truffles,
and tar) to floral; these aromas can be very vivid and pure. The
finest Nebbiolo-based wines take many years to develop and can
live for decades; many approachable, young-drinking wines from
Nebbiolo also exist. Nebbiolo is usually not blended with other
varieties; and when it is, Barbera and Bonarda are predictable
partners.
Barbera
- until Sangiovese dethroned Barbera sometime in the past
20 years, Barbera was the most planted red variety in all of
Italy. It still grows in many parts of the Italian peninsula, but
its finest wines come from Piedmont, Barbera's home turf. Barbera
is a very unusual red variety because it has almost no tannins. It
does have deep color and high acidity, as well as spicy and
red-fruit aromas and flavors that are vivid in young wines. The
combination of high acid, low tannin, and vivid flavor make
Barbera wines particularly refreshing. The finest expressions of
Barbera are unblended, but many blended wines containing Barbera
do exist.
Aglianico - this unsung native variety is the pride of the
Campania and Basilicata regions, in Southern Italy, where it makes
Taurasi and Aglianico del Vulture respectively. Aglianico came to
Southern Italy from Greece millennia ago, and today grows as far
north as Lazio; in the South, it also grows in Molise, Puglia, and
Calabria. At its best, Aglianico makes dark, powerful red wines of
high quality. But its production is relatively small, and in many
cases the variety is merely part of a blend with other southern
varieties. Nevertheless, it is one of Italy's finest red
varieties, and has excellent potential.
Other red grapes grown - Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cannanou, Corvina, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Lambrusco, Merlot,
Montepulciano, Negroamaro, Nero d'Avola, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot
Nero, Primitivo, Refosco, Sagrantino, Schiava, and Teroldego.
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