"Despite numerous
obstacles, South Africa is now producing reds to rival those from
France and California." -Rodger Voss, November 2006 edition of
the Wine Enthusiast
America is
Migrating to the Great Taste of South African Wines - James Molesworth
What’s behind the phenomenal growth of
South African wine? Leading authorities like the Wine Spectator’s
James Molesworth have a simple explanation why sales have
increased by an average of more than 33% annually since 2002 –
world class quality that propelled U.S. sales to more than one
million cases last year:
“Since my last report on South Africa (‘South
Africa’s Newfound Value, May 2002’), I have tasted 306
wines, up from 164 from the previous year. More than 40
scored 90 points or better on the Wine
Spectator 100 point scale, a marked increase over previous
years. Nearly 90 percent of the wines
scored at least 80 points, a strong showing.”
South Africa is the
only wine growing region in the world influenced by two oceans:
the Atlantic, where the icy Benguela current hugs the shore, and
the warmer Indian Ocean, which create beneficial maritime
conditions like regular coastal fog and cool sea breezes. These oceans converge under the shadow of
Table Mountain at
Cape Point, the southern tip of Africa.
Wine country extends across a substantial and varied geographic
area where the climate and soils are ideal for producing world
class wine grapes. The vineyards start about 200 miles north of
Cape Town on the Atlantic coast and continue southward past Cape
Town, turning east and following the Indian Ocean coast. Most of
the vineyards are located along the west (Atlantic) coast, which
is known as the
Western Cape.
The South African wine producing regions
are on soils that are the most varied in the world, both
geologically and biologically.
These regions are known to have
some of the oldest viticultural soils in the world, traceable back to
the first super continent some 1,000 million
years ago.
The Cape winelands are located in the
Cape Floral Kingdom, one of six
such plant kingdoms in the world. The Cape Floral Kingdom is the
only one in the world which contains the full floral plant species
in its entirety - more than the whole of the northern hemisphere.
Recognized as a biodiversity hotspot, 70% of the plants found here
are not found anywhere else on earth - making the Cape Floral
Kingdom a world heritage site. Since the wine growing areas are
spread across this rich floral kingdom, vineyard expansion and
development in the Cape region is strictly monitored and
controlled.
The growing season in the Western Cape is comparable to the
Mediterranean climate of the finest growing regions of Europe,
with dry, mild summers and clear skies between October and April. Morning fog from the
Atlantic cools the
vineyards and gives way to warm midday sunshine. In the afternoon,
the inland warmth draws chilly breezes inland from the Atlantic,
cooling the vineyards and allowing the grapes to develop optimal
flavors as they ripen. Most vineyards are hand harvested, starting
with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in late January and ending
with Cabernet Sauvignon in April. Thus, South Africa’s harvest is
about six months ahead of California, similar to other leading
Southern Hemisphere producers like Australia, New Zealand and
Argentina. The winters that follow the harvest tend to be cold and
wet, with rainfall reaching 40 inches in some coastal vineyards.
South Africa has five wine
growing regions which are widely
considered to be some of the best and most beautiful in the world:
the Coastal,
Olifants River (17% of the countries total wine
production), Boberg, Breede River Valley and Little Karoo
(3%). The Breede River Valley Region includes the Robertson
District (14%) and the Worcester District (24%). Other important
premium vineyard areas include Paarl (12%), Stellenbosch and
Malmsbury - (9% each).
The
Wine & Spirits Board further divides these regions into 14
districts, wards and estates under the Wine of Origin Areas. These
include the Coastal Districts of Swartland, Paarl, Stellenbosch,
Tulbaugh, Tygerberg and Cape Point. Each district is comprised of
smaller, key wards such as Constantia, Durbanville, Franschock
Valley and Simonsberg, where soil, topography and micro-climate
conditions combine to create a unique terroir that manifests
itself in the wine from that area.
Historically, South Africa has predominantly produced white wines,
however, red varietals now account for the majority of new
plantings. In 2004, red wine grapes accounted for half of the
harvest, matching whites for the first time in recent history.
Today, there’s a new generation of passionate and enthusiastic
winemakers in South Africa, many of whom have extensive
international training in both Old and New World winemaking
styles. They are building on their heritage by taking full
advantage of their unique terroir to produce wines that have won
more international awards than those from any other country since
2004. Their vineyards are planted with some of the world’s finest
varieties and clones, and most are hand harvested. Over 250,000
acres are cultivated by 4,400 growers and wine is made in more
than 500 wine cellars and estates that collectively produce over
105,000,000 cases annually. About 25% of the total production is
exported to more than 80 countries, with over 40% of total exports going to the
U.K. alone.
On a global comparison, South Africa is the worlds 8th largest
producer of wine, contributing 2.5% share of world production.
South Africa is also ranked as the 9th largest import category of
wines in the U.S. market to date with a volume growth of 30% since
2004.
South Africa has been
making wine for more than 350 years and traces its roots back to
the founding of Cape Town in 1652 by the Dutch East India Trading
Company. Their trading ships needed a place to take on provisions
during the long Europe-Asia voyages around the tip of Africa, and
Table Bay provided the ideal location. Settlers sent by the
Company established Cape Town, built a fort to protect their
settlement, and with the assistance of the Company and under the
guidance of the first governor of Cape Town, planted vines
introduced from France, Spain and Germany in 1655. Within a few
years, French Protestants who were fleeing religious persecution began to settle
in the area, bringing their vineyard and winemaking skills, and
thus South Africa’s wine industry was born.
By the 18th century, the sweet wines of the Constantia region of
the Cape Peninsula had acquired an international reputation. They
rivaled the greatest dessert wines of Europe; emperors and kings
bid for them,
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Charles Dickens and Jane Austin wrote about them, and Napoleon
took casks of Constantia’s wines with him to ease his exile.
Prosperity continued into the first half of the 19th century when
the British were South Africa’s most important customers. During
their occupation of the Cape, they became avid consumers of the
locally produced wines. Britain, during this period, was at war
with France - placing protective tariffs on all French goods. This
helped created a huge new export market as South African wines
replaced those from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. Such large
quantities were exported to England that Cape Town was nicknamed
"Little Paris".
However,
1861 brought disaster – the war ended and South Africa’s wine
exports collapsed. French wines were once again available in
Britain at cheaper prices than South African wines. Phylloxera followed in 1886 and South Africa’s vineyards
were decimated. By the 1900’s and the start of the
Anglo Boer War,
the wine industry was in chaos. A proliferation of hardy, high
yielding plantings soon followed, leading to overproduction and 25
years of hardship. Charles Kohler set out to remedy this
situation. His efforts lead to the creation of the South African
Co-operative Winegrowers Association in 1918. The KWV, as it
became known, formed with government backing, finally brought stability to the industry by
enforcing production quotas and maintaining minimum wine
prices. Until the mid 1990’s, KWV’s functions also included
research, vine propagation, advisory services and wine education.
The 1980's saw international trade sanctions placed against the
South African economy by the global community, as a protest
against the apartheid regime. This in turn made it extremely hard,
if not virtually impossible for wineries to export wines to
countries abroad, many winemakers during this time left the
country to take up residence in various wineries around the world.
Since the end of Apartheid in South Africa in the early 1990's,
the situation has changed dramatically with South Africa's
re-entry into the world market. With the removal of sanctions,
South Africa was able to import much needed materials, increase
production and start adapting to international competition. Many
wine makers returned to South Africa, bringing with them valuable
insight and international skills to rejuvenate the industry.
However it would be a slow return to the international arena -
vineyards take at least 10 years to change grapes and production
volumes, combined with changing attitudes and awareness in a
conservative industry, and attract outside investment.
Today the South African industry is
maturing at a rapid rate, gaining a reputation for fruity,
enjoyable wines that are both affordable and approachable combined
with fresh stylistic packaging, while at the same time producing a
higher caliber of expensive, Bordeax-style reds to rival those
from California and France.
All of the wine grapes planted in South Africa originated in
Europe and belong to the species Vitis vinifera. Because this
rootstock is susceptible to phylloxera, these vines have largely
been grafted onto the phylloxera resistant rootstock from America,
like the famous vineyards in France. On average, the lifespan of a
typical premium table wine vineyard is at least 25-30 years, but
some some 100 year old vines are still being harvested.
Whites
Chardonnay: A native of the Burgundy region of France and
the most popular white wine in America, this white varietal is
widely planted; some Chardonnay is oak fermented and aged, and
some is un-wooded.
Chenin Blanc: Known as Steen in South Africa, this is the
most widely planted white grape. Perhaps the world's most
versatile white, it can be vinified in a variety of styles from
sweeter to dryer, as well as made into sherry and sparkling
wine. The finest Chenin Blanc vineyards tend to be more than 25
years old and produce wines of surprising depth, complexity and
flavor.
Sauvignon Blanc: Extensively planted in the 18th century,
these wines can be peppery or grassy in character, depending on
the vineyard location. A mineral note marks the wines with a
distinctive terroir. Many believe South Africa is on it’s way to
becoming one of the world’s foremost producers of Sauvignon Blanc.
Other whites: Colombard, Bukettraube, Muscadel, Palomino,
Gewurztraminer, Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris), Viognier, Muscat
d’Alexandrie, Reisling as well as Semillion round out the primary
white wine varieties.
Reds
Pinotage: South Africa’s signature red wine grape was
created in 1925 by a viticulturist at the University of
Stellenbosch who crossed Pinot Noir with Hermitage (also known as
Cinsault). Approximately 20% of all red wine acreage is devoted to
Pinotage, which is bottled both as a varietal and also blended
with other reds to add color, depth and body. To read more about
this distinctive grape, click here on
Pinotage.
Cabernet Sauvignon: Considered around the world as the king
of red wines, Cabernet is grown in almost every region. It
accounts for about one quarter of the Cape’s red wine plantings,
and as in Bordeaux, it is bottled as a varietal and also blended
with Merlot and sometimes Cabernet Franc. At its finest, it
develops into full bodied, complex wines that can age for decades.
Merlot: An early ripening variety which is traditionally
used as a blending partner to add softness and breadth to other
reds. Today, it is primarily known in America as our most popular
red varietal, ahead of Cabernet Sauvignon. Plantings have grown
rapidly in Paarl and Stellenbosch.
Cinsaut: This strong bearer is very versatile and can be
blended with Cabernet or used as a quality wine for distilling
brandy. It is also used for making rosé wines and port.
Pinot Noir: As befits a varietal of notoriously difficult
character, Pinot Noir is not widely planted but does produce a
limited number of excellent wines in some cooler viticultural
areas. These wines tend to be lighter in color than the more
commonly produced reds and exhibit berry flavors enlivened by a
subtle spice tone.
Shiraz: Also known as Syrah, this variety is well suited to
the Southern Hemisphere and thrives in South Africa. Plantings are
increasing significantly, and along with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Shiraz accounts for almost 80% of the new red wine plantings. Made
in several styles, it yields deep purple, smoky and spicy/peppery
wines which develop an increasingly complex character as they age.
Other Reds: Malbec, Ruby Cabernet, Petit Verdot, Nebbiolo,
Cabernet Franc, Tinta Borroca and Mourvèdre are also planted.
Pinotage is intense, earthy, striking, dark and brooding - call it
"Africa in a glass!"
- John Walker, South African wine writer and author.
Pinotage was created in 1925 by Abraham Perold, a professor at the
University of Stellenbosch. Pinotage is a crossing of two prominent
red varieties native to France; Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Cinsault
from the Hermitage region of the northern Rhône Valley. Perold
was seeking a grape that would combine the refined flavors of the
classic wines of Burgundy and the sturdiness and resistance to
disease found in Rhône varietals.
To create the cross, Perold brushed a male Cinsault (Hermitage) flower
against a Pinot Noir pollen donor. The experiment created four
seeds that he planted in the garden at his residence. Despite his
successful cross, he moved on to other projects and left the
University two years later to take a position with KWV in Paarl. His
residence stood empty while his garden became overgrown. The
university eventually sent a small team to tidy up the property;
just as they arrived, a young lecturer who knew about Perold’s
success happened upon the residence and saved the seedlings. These
were then re-established at the Elsenburg Agricultural College by
Perold’s successor, C.J. Theron.
The seedlings were largely ignored for the next seven years, but
in 1935, Theron grafted material from the seedlings onto newly
established Richter rootstock at the Welgevallen Experimental
Farm. During one of Perold’s regular visits to the Farm, Theron
showed the four grafted vines to his predecessor. Perold’s
enthusiasm for Pinotage was re-kindled, and he suggested that the
new variety by propagated (reproduced). Pinotage was eventually
made in small casks and first bottled as a varietal by 1941.
It took time to determine how to coax the best wines from this new
grape, however low-yielding, decades-old untrellised “bush” vines
provided the ultimate solution. Grapes from these stunted, water
stressed vines produced purple juice so dense it needed open top
fermentation tanks and oak barrel aging to tame its character and
bring out its charms. Vintners discovered that treated with
respect and handled in the manner of a fine Cabernet or Merlot,
Pinotage could yield magnificent, lusty red wines with flavors of
crushed berries, plums, spice and smoke.
South Africans have discovered a potential for greatness in this
distinct varietal that reflects their soil, climate and
topography; in other words, their terroir. Argentine winemakers
see the same thing in their Malbec, as do the producers of
old-vine California Zinfandels. All of these speak directly and
empathetically to their respective vineyard homes and offer a
unique taste profile, thereby making a unique contribution to the
world of fine wines.
Pinotage has spread to other countries in limited amounts
including California (about 30 acres) and New Zealand, but the
vast majority of the world’s Pinotage vineyards all still in South
Africa. Today, the finest Pinotage is grown on bush vines that
produce small, hardy, intensely colored grapes known for their
color, depth, classic sweet berry flavors and tannins. Pinotage
styles can range from lighter blush wines to full bodied leather
and spice versions like the famous Burgundies. The higher alcohol
versions of 14% and more benefit from oak aging and extending
cellaring, like other hardy reds.
SOUTH AFRICA'S QUALITY GUARANTEE
- The Wine & Spirit Board
In 1973, the Department of Agriculture created the
Wine & Spirit
Board to protect the distinctive qualities that wines that derive
not only from certain areas and estates, but also from specific
grape varieties and vintages. The Board guarantees the reliability
of the information listed on the label, including vintage, grape varietal content, and overall soundness of the wine, and tastes
samples of export lots at least once every eight months. Their
approval is signified by the
certificate found on the neck of
every wine bottled for export.
Pinotage was created in 1925 by Abraham Perold, a professor at the
University of Stellenbosch. Pinotage is a crossing of two prominent
red varieties native to France; Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Cinsault
from the Hermitage region of the northern Rhône Valley. Perold
was seeking a grape that would combine the refined flavors of the
classic wines of Burgundy and the sturdiness and resistance to
disease found in Rhône varietals. 